my manhattan

home, home, home, home, home

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The very first thing I hung in my new apartment was the Dear Sugar poster. At the head of my bed. Just above where I lie my head each night.

 

“Acceptance is a small, quiet room.”

 

“Every last one of us can do better than give up.”

 

“The fuck is your life. Answer it. “

 

I moved from Brooklyn back into Manhattan. Into a tiny two bedroom apartment in a tangle of streets in the heart of Greenwich Village.

 

After so many apartments over so many years I worry about little more than light and noise. So on a breezy day in mid-April when Lauren and I walked up the one flight of stairs at the back of the building and into a tiny apartment with large windows and quite a lot of quiet we both knew it would do just fine.

 

And so a few weeks later, when my new space was little more than boxes and a bed, I pulled out a single nail and hung that Dear Sugar poster above my bed, knowing immediately, that it would live there alone.

 

I went back to Ms. Strayed’s book, Tiny Beautiful Things, a few days ago. I was in search of a very particular essay right at the start of the book.

 

“My mother’s last word to me clanks inside me like an iron bell that someone beats at dinnertime: love, love, love, love, love. “

 

How often I think of these words. And the clank of my very own iron bell: home, home, home, home, home.

 

Love by another name.

 

Time keeps hurtling forward—somersaulting over itself.

 

And because it does, and because we cannot change this, we must move, at the same time, in the direction of our choosing—into the thick woods of what has meaning for us. Which is very often a dark and treacherous and tangled place. Where roots grow sideways out of soil and it’s a steep and slippery slope to the waters below.

 

The notion of home clangs around in my body, banging me up a bit. Mostly because it’s an ever-moving target that resists my desperate efforts to wrangle it into stillness.

 

Home is not today what it was the day before, nor what it will be tomorrow.

 

And I am caught in the thick underbrush of discovery.

 

Which, is as it turns out, a prickly place to live.

 

But the soil here is thick and rich and awfully fertile.

 

When I moved across the East River I said I’d never move back—if I could help it, I wouldn’t move back.

 

But sometime, in the space of those two years, the clanging of home changed.

 

And suddenly home became shorter subway rides and lower rents and the awareness that this phase of my life is ephemeral at best. And so instead of trying to change that, I’d dive into it. Accept that the beauty was in the impermanence. And that perhaps moving back to Manhattan would be the beginning of a long and sweet goodbye.

 

And that, maybe, in order to move on, I’d first need to live here in a way I never before had. Which is to say, right in the middle of everything.

 

Brooklyn was so good to me. The backdrop to such a magical, and deeply personal time—belonging only to me. Already it feels half-imagined. I fear I maybe found it too soon.

 

But I’m quite sure I had to leap-frog to a phase of my life that saw me living so totally alone, and in a place so different than Manhattan, in order to return to where I am now: still quite young, still with a bit of fight, growing roots into the air.

 

Still searching for the meaning of home. Still reaching for the brass ring on the moving carousel.

 

Not where I thought I’d be. But where I am. Nonetheless.

 

Home, home, home, home, home. Love, love, love, love, love.

 

There’s a large windowsill just next to my bed. I’ve placed five small succulents there.

 

I’d move back to the city and I’d get plants--that was the deal I made with myself.

 

I had meant to get them way back when I lived in Washington Heights.

 

Was absolutely sure I’d get them upon moving to Brooklyn.

 

But somehow I never managed to.

 

Until now.

 

Ten tiny succulents in all.

 

Ten succulents, and me absolutely terrified I will kill each. and every. one. of. them.

 

Lauren has told me to stop touching them.

 

But I fuss. Because each one is helping, in its own small way, to answer the hanging question of home—and what it is now... and what it will be tomorrow.

 

When my father came to visit last weekend he asked where I would write. The apartment is small--there's not room enough for my desk. Currently I've tucked the pieces of it away beneath my bed.

 

Tom had asked the same question.

 

I don't know yet, was all I could think to say.

 

But here I am writing, cross-legged on my bed, looking up toward two frames with a split photo of a building in Paris.

 

Two photos I didn't take. Because I have yet to go to Paris.

 

But two photos as a window to what comes next, I like to think.

 

Which seems like the perfect place from which to write.

 

A view of home and love and its many iterations--both present and future.

 

I can’t wait to get to Paris.

 

And yet, I can. And that is now an immutable truth in my life.

 

Paris will wait.

 

For the right person. For the right time.

 

It too is a question in search of an answer.

 

And the thing is, I’m okay with the questions.  And I’m okay with the slow unfolding of answers.

 

I’m okay with waiting for something better—moving towards something better. For the refusal to accept anything less. And I won’t apologize for the trajectory of my life. For my many mistakes and missteps. For spending so much time in the thick woods of discovery.

 

Because home is the pulsing belief that there is still more to unearth. And love is the iron bell of my own heart.

 

And the gold ring is just an inch beyond my fingertips.

 

 

 

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what to do in nyc | the metropolitan museum of art + cafe sabarsky

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For the most part I'm really okay that I didn't end up in Paris this long weekend (that post and explanation coming tomorrow).

 

But for my eyes.

 

But for the feast my eyes would've beheld.

 

And the weight of the camera in my hands as I beheld it.

 

Does that make sense?

 

There are so many ways we feed ourselves, I believe that. And just as our bodies are primed (and need) to eat a variety of things...I think the eyes need the same. The architecture, the paintings, the small neighborhoods and cobble stone streets, my eyes were hungry for Paris. My body was craving the experience of the city.

 

But Paris will wait; it has to.

 

When it became clear the trip was not happening, or rather, that it would happen without me, I called my very best friends here in the city and asked them to play tourist with me. I wanted to do something in New York that would in some way mimic my derailed Parisian adventure.

 

The Met came to mind.

 

It's one of the most visited tourist attraction, and while I--yes--tend to shy away from visiting such places (or even suggesting them), on this front I absolutely concede: the Met is worth the visit.

 

The building itself is a stunner. The galleries are well curated and the artwork is, of course, tremendous. So go. Really, go.

 

And after, turn the corner on 86th and grab a delicious meal or snack at Cafe Sabarsky (inspired by turn of the century Viennese cafes) in the Neue Galerie. There is an upstairs and downstairs to this establishment--the upstairs while admittedly more aesthetically appealing has the wait time to go along with it. It's not inexpensive, but it's a fun and interesting New York experience.

 

 

what to do in nyc | fort tryon + the cloisters

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There's a place high up north on the island of Manhattan that hardly anyone speaks of. And yet. And yet and yet. It is beautiful and quiet and the air is cooler and cleaner and the view! Fort Tryon Park is, in my not so humble opinion, one of the most beautiful things you might hope to see in Manhattan--in large part because it so very much a departure from what you expect of this city. It is lush and hilly and the bluffs on the other side of the Hudson part to reveal what surely inspired so much art of the American romantic and transcendentalist movement.

 

It is an always welcome pause.

 

It is also home to The Cloisters (the branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art devoted to Medieval artwork). Yesterday was just my second time visiting this museum and I had forgotten how lovely it. It is too small to be overwhelming and wonderfully mixes indoor and outdoor space.

 

It is my suggestion that if you're visiting New York it's worth riding the A train to 190th and taking the elevator up (follow the signs to The Cloisters). It will empty you at the entrance of Fort Tryon. Walk through the park to the museum, enjoy your fill of Medieval architecture and relics, and then have lunch or brunch or dinner at New Leaf Cafe--one of my very favorite restaurants in New York because it feels nearly out of place, nestled as it is in so much vegetation. These three things (as well as the time for the commute) will fill a full morning or afternoon.

 

{As I research what to do + where to go in Paris--with absolutely no prior knowledge of the city, it has got me rethinking how to advise people visiting New York. There is so much information I take for granted and I think when I return from my sojourn I'm going to work to revamp any tips/tricks/ideas for really getting the New York city experience when you've only got a little bit of time}.

 

Happy Monday, I have a feeling it's going to be a good week!

 

xo

my new york | the one with street art, full coffee shops, and hanging lights everywhere

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My good, good friend Alisha and I met for coffee this afternoon. I suggested Peels because it was warm enough out that we'd be able to grab lattes-to-go and then wander. Waiting for her to arrive, I hung out on the corner just outside the restaurant. Funny thing about New York, there are certain places in the city that make me feel so very uncool. When I was in college it was any part of SOHO. Now, it turns out, it is the corner just outside Peels on the Lower East Side. The New Yorker in me was born and bred on the Upper West Side--where sweaters and button-downs and penny loafers are still, by-and-large, the norm. And coming from Texas--where women wear pearls and men gingham shirts... well, my style leans toward a certain blue-blooded-Americana. Sure, every once and a while I'll pull on an oversized hat or some distressed biker-boots, but if you drop me off in certain parts of downtown Manhattan or Brooklyn, I mostly feel wildly out of place--like everyone is in costume and I've missed the memo.

 

Today I discovered that the corner outside Peels is one such place--a place where everyone seems to be just a little too good looking--where everyone knows each other and wears expensive retro sunglasses and Native-American-inspired-caftans. It's the sort of corner populated by people who seem to ooze too-cool-for-school.

 

And here's the thing, as I get older, I have less and less patience for just those sort of people. Because the hipster thing has happened. Am I the only one who's ready to see what happens when hipster grows up? An evolution or aging process is in order, no?

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is, I'd take authentic over glamorous any day of the week.

 

I've gotten off topic.

 

This is all to say, that when  Alisha arrived, I grabbed her by the arm and pulled her in the opposite direction.

 

The air had quickly turned from cool to cold and it seemed that every coffee shop we passed was packed--the people looking all cozy and warm (and firmly planted) inside. Which is how we found ourselves in the basement of a coffee shop in Chinatown.

 

I like Alisha because she doesn't have time for the nonsense of "cool" either. Also, she's one of the very smartest people I know (she was home-schooled, so a huge kudos to her parents).

 

In that tiny coffee shop basement we grooved to good music, and sipped lattes, and talked about life's big things. She groaned when I told her how I lacked a certain amount of courage when doing something-that-as-of-yet-will-not-be-discussed-here, and I smiled as she told me about the first time she ever laid eyes on the man she's now married to. And then we talked about faith--faith in a higher power, in ourselves, in the lives we're now living, and in the people we hope to be.

 

And then we wandered--me with the big camera, her with her good eye for street graffiti.

 

I think the very best thing about my very favorite girlfriends here in New York is that when we're together we're constantly mistaken for tourists. And we're okay with that. We treat the city like it's an explorer's adventure.

 

No room, nor time for cool. And I wouldn't have it any other way.